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Crown Jewel

Crown Jewel

Our friend Margaret is not a morning person by nature. But it is summer in the Canadian Rockies, and the true beauty of Lake Louise is best shared early. Really early.

We were up at 5:30 a.m. for a 6:30 a.m. departure. Our forecast was for partly cloudy skies with scattered showers possible. 

The road to Lake Louise

We arrived around 7:30 a.m. and found parking easily. A steady, pelting rain greeted us. Undaunted, we bundled up in layers with raincoats and hiking poles and set out for the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse. The rain created jewel-like images that were nothing short of magical.

Lake Louise Lake Trail

Lake Louise

Looking back, with the Fairmont in the distance.

Where fresh water meets glacier melt.

The rain turned to drizzle as we started our ascent. The trail was essentially ours alone. Glaciers surrounded us. We made a steady climb through woods and scree. Part of the trail was out due to water, so we adventurously bypassed it on steep terrain. Awesome.

Lake Louise from the trail.

A very happy Margaret

Photo break. Plain of Six Glaciers trail, Lake Louise, Banff National Park.

We reached the top and enjoyed the Teahouse's famous chocolate cake and tea. A short trek to view the glaciers was followed, along with some scary stories about Pole Glacier, a.k.a. the Death Trap. Fun.

Dave and I descending into chaos.

Mountain solitude met high tourist season on the way down. But, we were content. Not only did we conquer mountains, we conquered CROWDS.


Chillin’

Chillin’

If you have spent even one summer in Arizona, this request comes as no surprise.

Joe to Dave: “I have heard about this huge glacier. It is supposed to be amazing. Is it possible to actually go and see it?”  Hmmmm.

It is late June, and the mountains are still snowy and beautiful. And, the walk up to Athabasca Glacier in the Columbia Icefields can be chilling. Literally. Chilling. The perfect outing for our friends, Joe and Karen. Request granted.

Setting out on Icefields Parkway

Karen at Peyto Lake (note snow on coat!)

So, we loaded into the Jeep and headed up Icefields Parkway, the highway that connects Lake Louise to Jasper. By the time we made a pitstop at Helen Lake, it was snowing. 

Cameras out at Bow Lake and Crowfoot Glacier. Peyto Lake was stunning. The sky was cloudy with patches of sun. Brisk. We continued on through Saskatchewan Crossing to the Columbia Icefields.

Peyto Lake


The trail up to the glacier.

Athabasca Glacier loomed before us. A steady stream of brave souls could be seen making the frigid trek to the base. Tiny ants in comparison to the glacier itself. Joe and Dave joined the mecca while Karen and I held down the fort (hahaha). Hey, it was REALLY WINDY and COLD. We did discover a snowy mountain top in the shape of a gecko.

Athabasca Glacier, June 2018. Look closely to see actual people on the glacier

Notice the snowy gecko on the right. Ok, Ok. It Kinda looks like one, doesn't it?

Upon their return, the look of accomplishment on Joe’s face said it all.  Mission accomplished.


Clouds

Clouds

It was not a UFO. But it sure looked ominous. Lenticular clouds are not uncommon in the Rockies. They develop when air moves over the mountains and cools down to the point that condensation occurs. These clouds are different because they don’t move–the passage of air just reforms them again and again.

Lenticular cloud over Three Sisters.

South Shore Bylot Island, Lawren Harris, 1931

But, I digress. The evening storm front turned into a morning full of visual beauty—the kind of landscapes that artists can only dream about. The stuff of Lawrence Harris paintings. And thanks to Dave’s birthday tee-time of 7:10 am, we were able experience it firsthand. I think my canvas is calling.

Three Sisters Parkway

God's Light, Canmore, AB

Three Sisters

Canmore Golf and Curling Club, Canmore, AB  Happy Birthday Dave!

Canmore Golf and Curling Club, Canmore, AB

Grotto Mountain, Canmore, AB


Chephren

Chephren

I saw it on the CTV news. Actually, it was one of those photo posts from a viewer—you know, the kind they show on the nightly weather forecasts. I hurriedly wrote down Chephren Lake Trail, Banff. 

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There are so many beautiful hikes that exist much closer to home. However, the image of the lake encouraged us to branch out a bit. The Chephren Lake Trail is a 2-hour drive from Canmore, and is located off the Icefields Parkway. Normally, a long way to travel for a relatively short hike.

A view from the trailhead.

A view from the trailhead.

Trailside meadow.

Trailside meadow.

We pulled into the Waterfowl Lakes Campground and headed to the trailhead – a bridge crossing over the Mistaya River. From there we ascended through the muddy, twisted roots of an old growth spruce forest. Then, just as we started wondering about the worth of this little excursion, we rounded a corner. The images below speak for themselves.

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Rain

Rain

And then the rains came. Well, kind of. After last summer’s smoke and ash, a rainy forecast is a good, good thing. However, when rain is combined with getting booted out of the house for 4 days due to floor repair, it can evolve into something rather interesting. Our motto for the week was “just get into the Jeep and DRIVE.”

All kidding aside, the week went remarkably well. Monday was sunny, warm and spent in Canmore and Grassi Lake, a beautiful hike just outside of town. On Tuesday, we ventured up a loose gravel road to Spray Lake, followed by a tour of the Kananaskis countryside.

Grassi Lake

Grassi Lake

Trail-side at Grassi Lake

Trail-side at Grassi Lake

Signs of Spring, Kananaskis.

Signs of Spring, Kananaskis.

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Upper Kananaskis Lake

Upper Kananaskis Lake

Wednesday was cloudy with patches of sun. A stop at the Natural Bridge in Yoho National Park, was an unexpected pleasure. A hidden gem. We also passed through the Verdant Creek area to view the burn areas from last summer.

Natural Bridge, Yoho National Park

Natural Bridge, Yoho National Park

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Verdant Creek area

Verdant Creek area

However, Friday had to be the most adventurous day of the week. We traveled south, almost to the U.S. border, to Crow’s Nest Pass in a driving rain storm. Then, feeling ambitious, we took a short-cut on a one-lane gravel road (that had collected rain for the past three days) that created a mid-tire mud-fest. After sliding onto asphalt, we arrived at Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump. I think the last time i visited this site I was twelve. Times have changed. This World Heritage site, tucked into a prairie, is where indigenous hunters (if they were very lucky ) drove herds of buffalo over a cliff to provide for their tribe. Note to Hillary - This is the place that songs are made from. Right?

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The Jump

The Jump

Looking down from the edge.

Looking down from the edge.


To Market

To Market

When we do our urban hikes, there is usually a reason behind it. Something to see, a Rocky Mountain Outlook to pick up, or a cappuccino to savor at the end of the trail.

Last week, we hiked downtown to the first Farmers Market of the season. The weather was gorgeous, and well worth documenting. Checked on the wild rhubarb, which I scout with a vengeance. I love to make anything rhubarb – and scavenging for it makes it that much more special.

The trail into downtown Canmore from Three Sisters.

The trail into downtown Canmore from Three Sisters.

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The produce at the market was fresh and delicious. We bought a locally-made elderflower syrup to experiment with. White wine, club soda, and a splash of elderflower syrup…..yes, please.

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The reward this week could not be purchased or eaten. Upon our return home, we were treated to a herd of female elk, nestled in the woods just off the trail. Several were quite pregnant, lounging in the shade of the tall trees. Totally worth the trip. Let’s do it again next week.

Where’s Waldo?

Where’s Waldo?


A Week of Firsts

A Week of Firsts

Our transition from the desert to the mountains is a usually a quick one. We jump in with both feet. This past week was full of firsts—some traditional, and some not so…  

It seems like we brought the heat with us again this year. We were greeted with temps near 30°c, but fortunately, it didn’t last. Our first walk into town was on a rainy, gusty, Oooooh. Clouds. This was the first real rain we had seen since late last year. The icing on the cake seeing our first elk!

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Downtown Canmore

Downtown Canmore

The Grizzly Paw Pub

The Grizzly Paw Pub

The Grizzly Paw on Main St. in Canmore has been a first stop tradition of ours for close to 20 years. There is nothing better than an order of poutine, a pint of Big Herd Nut Brown, and another pint of Buffalo Stout. Welcome home.

Barrier Lake Trail

Barrier Lake Trail

The Barrier Lake Trail was our first real hike of the season. One BIG uphill, with a beautiful payoff. Someday, I will ride my mountain bike up that one. NOT GONNA HAPPEN.

Lastly, one of the most joyous firsts of the week was to discover the new dog park by our home. Dota and Puccini have never experienced the real freedom of running free.. It is so wonderful to see them running, sniffing, and exploring on their own. Go lil’ mountain dogs, go.

Free to run.

Free to run.

Dota takes a stand.

Dota takes a stand.


Pack a Lunch

Pack a Lunch

The Chester Lake Trail is one of my Dad’s all-time favorite hikes. He has been hiking this trail for close to 30 years—and has introduced it to many friends and family members. It is a moderate 10.6 km out and back hike with views rivaling anything you will see in a National Park. The first half of the hike is a steady incline, followed by a beautiful meandering trail through lush green meadows. When hiking around the lake, we often take a detour to a place we call Elephant Rock. It is a short, unmarked trail that leads to some enormous boulders worthy of exploring.

In the spring there is an abundance of wildflowers, and in the fall, golden stands of larches. For an entirely different experience, many snowshoe during the winter months on the well-marked trail.

We hike to the lake at least twice during the year. The trail is closed from May 1 - June 29 for wildlife passage. And it can also be closed when a grizzly decides to visit. So, pack a lunch and spend a day in the wilderness. You won’t be disappointed.

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Chester Lake Trail, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park.

Chester Lake Trail, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park.

Spring wildflowers, Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park.

Spring wildflowers, Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park.

Beauty on the trail.

Beauty on the trail.

Lakeside. Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park

Lakeside. Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park

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Alpine clarity, lakeside.

Alpine clarity, lakeside.

View from the lakeside portion of the trail. Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park

View from the lakeside portion of the trail. Chester Lake, Peter Loughheed Provincial Park

“Elephant” Rocks

“Elephant” Rocks

Hillary and Bruno on the rocks.

Hillary and Bruno on the rocks.

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Our favorite lunch spot, on our own private island.

Our favorite lunch spot, on our own private island.


Our Cup of Tea

Our Cup of Tea

The warmer it gets in Arizona, the more I begin to dream about Alberta. There is nothing quite as special as hike in early June to the Lake Agnes Tea House, at Lake Louise. 

Smoke and Mirrors

Smoke and Mirrors

This was an extraordinary summer.  Fires raged and ashes fell. Blue skies gave way to an orange glow. Lack of rain encouraged the flames wrath. There was still beauty amongst the ashes.