It was September 26th, and snow was in the forecast. Not a dusting of snow, mind you, a full-fledged blizzard. Just our luck— we were departing on the 29th, before sunrise. Maybe it won’t stick, I thought hopefully. Think again.
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Canada
Dave and I love the Dorrien Smith/Spray Lake Trail. We love to take our friends up the narrow, unpaved road, through all its twists, turns, and drop-offs—just to scare the crap out of them. You can always tell if someone has been there by their white, dust-encrusted vehicle. A right of passage, at least until the next rain.
Headwall Lake is usually a forgotten hike. It shares the parking lot with the premier Chester Lake trail and doesn’t get star billing. In fact, it gets no billing. Push those thoughts aside—this 10-mile hike weaves through multiple terrain, on its way up to some pretty spectacular views.
Our reason behind hiking Taylor Lake was simple. There was a connection. You see, Dave’s Mom’s maiden name was Taylor. The name alone rekindled wonderful memories for him—even before our hike began.
Canada Day in Canmore is a joyous event. Every year, the town swells from 14,000 to well over 20,000. On July 1st, families crowd the streets to view marching bands, campy floats, olympic athletes on ski-skates and Calgary Stampede dignitaries. Squirt guns are almost mandatory. This year, we decided to change it up.
This year, the longest day was truly the longest day. Summer solstice sans summer. But the week of rain and high country snow eventually gave way to sunshine. And, the remaining stretch of Highway 40 in Kananaskis had opened, providing us with the opportunity to hike Ptarmigan Cirque.
It was spur of the moment. Dave and I hastily made a couple sandwiches, threw the bear spray in the Jeep and headed out. Little did we know what we would actually find.
On our way to the cirque!
After a beautiful start up the mountain, we climbed into some thick clouds still remaining from the previous day’s rain. Fog as thick as peanut butter (hahahaha)—made it necessary to turn on fog lights and slow to a snail’s pace. What began as patchy snow became a blanket, reminiscent of early fall in the Rockies.
And then the sun broke through.
Just outside the parking lot at Ptarmigan Cirque Trail.
By the time we reached the cirque, it became apparent that there was to be no hiking today. The snow was close to a foot deep, and our boots were not waterproof.
Fresh snowfall.
You know, all in all, It didn't seem to matter. I had never seen the upper portion of the Kananaskis trail and it was quite magical.
Ptarmigan Cirque can wait. :)
“We love the things we love for what they are.” ― Robert Frost
Sometimes a hike is just a long walk in the woods. Many hikers tend to pass on hikes that don’t reward them with wide open spaces, memorable vistas and physical challenges. I get that. But sometimes, the solitude and quiet of a less travelled path can be quite lovely.
Pocaterra Trail was one of those paths. The trail is a gentle upward climb through the woods, with glimpses of creeks, small lakes and mountains.
Pocaterra Creek.
We were completely alone that morning. The forest floor was damp and soft from the recent snow. Our first detour was to Pocaterra Creek, which we accessed following a game trail. Still in search of that elusive moose…
A sea of fern appeared, captured in early morning sunlight. Another brief scramble took us down to Rockwall lake, it’s muddy bottom covered with elk tracks.
Rockwall Lake.
As we climbed up the ridge, the mountains came into view; below us, lush green meadows.
The trail was wide enough to walk side by side, and easy enough to hold a conversation. Dave and I solved many of the world’s problems that day (hahahaha).
At one point we went off trail in search of Sparrow’s Lake. After foraging uphill through a mass of deadwood and moss we came upon a small meadow. A quick look at the map indicated that we would have to cross multiple ridges to get to the lake. That was not gonna happen. There was no real access from our route.
Strange and creepy mushrooms.
Oh—lest I forget, we saw some pretty weird mushrooms along the way, popping up under pine needles. I do not believe they are edible.
We were about three and half miles in when we realized our sandwiches were still on the counter at home. It was definitely time to head back.
Our favorite trails will open soon. The quiet and solitude will soon be replaced by an onslaught of tourists. But for a brief moment in early June, a quiet walk in the woods gave us both time to just be.
Well, our first couple of weeks in Canmore have been interesting. Any schedule that previously existed was promptly thrown out the window. Especially at night. Luci took a few days to adjust to her new surroundings, and Dota is still adjusting to her new sister. It might take years. Everything around here happens at warp speed—until it doesn’t. Luci reminds me of the Honeybadger, a former LSU and Arizona Cardinal cornerback. She will knock off anything that gets in her way. She actually bounces. All kidding aside, Lucia is a welcome addition.
Sunday morning - before the hike.
With that said, Dave and I left the pups and ventured out for our first hike last week. Elk Pass to Frozen Lake is an 8.4 mile out and back trail located by Lower Kananaskis Lake. The trail, an old fire road, eventually leads to Elk Lakes Cabin (maintained by the Alpine Club of Canada) and a backcountry campground.
It was about an hours drive from our place to the trailhead. The weather was cloudy and a chilly 45°. Our trek started off blissfully snow-free and dry. However, as we gained elevation, the dry trail turned to ice and snow—slowing our pace considerably.
What happened to the trail?
Fox Creek. No sign of moose.
We crossed multiple bridges, following some giant moose tracks in hopes of a sighting.
The Kananaskis range is daunting and massive. There were some impressive views to be had along the way.
Icy meadow. No sign of moose.
As the day progressed, the snow turned into slush. By the time we reached the meadow, it was a real mud-fest. We were about 3.5 miles in when we decided to have a bite to eat and head back.
Wildflowers blooming out of the bog.
Tired and cold, we were still content. For the first hike of the season, it was a splendid way to get our feet (soaking) wet.
It’s time for change. Familiar places, new beginnings. Our May departure crept up quickly. No matter what happens, this summer is going to be different.
On the road with Dota.
It was time. Dota loved being our one and only, but with that came the anxiety of being alone. A new italian greyhound pup was in the works for October, but fate managed to get in the way. We received a email in April from Stephanie and Avery Mcleod of Alfheim Hounds to let us know that a little blue and white pup was available. Oh, and that she was just what we were hoping for.
Wait…should we take a 14-week-old puppy to Canada for the summer?
Lucia
Note to self, if you are not sure, DO NOT LOOK AT THE PHOTO. Nearly impossible to do, I know. Everyone loves a puppy, especially if she is the perfect match. Who could refuse? Not us. So, we took a 1,000 mile detour to Clearview, WA to pick up Lucia (a.k.a. Luci), the newest addition to our canine family.
Somewhere in western Idaho.
Sprague, Washington
Three 12-hour days of driving. Along the way we saw elk, antelope, a coyote, and a couple of black bears. Luci joined Dota for the final day of our journey. They were real troopers. That in itself was amazing. We arrived in Canmore by mid-afternoon, exhausted, but no worse for wear.
Almost there! East Kootenay, B.C.
It is still cold and rainy/snowy here, with the prospect of better weather in early June. When the sun did come out, Dave and I took advantage of it with a hike into town. There is still snow on the ground in some areas and ice in the river.
Bow River, with Cascade Mountain in the background.
Neighborhood elk.
We also managed to take a small hike near Barrier Lake, and drive down Spray Lake Road to check things out. A lot of the trails here do not open until mid to late June.
Barrier Lake.
Barrier Lake, Kananaskis.
Spray Lake.
But signs of spring’s emergence are everywhere and rainfall really is a good thing.
One week in and no complaints. Dota has tolerated Luci quite well. In fact, she has become a bit of a pup herself, much to our chagrin. But, as in the weather, the promise of better days to come is always with us.
Let the adventure begin!
Why do Canadians call the U.S. their southern neighbors? In Mexico, are we their northern neighbors? Hmmmm. I guess it is all relative to where one lives. A random thought.
Show-off.
Just as the geese fly, so do we. The last week before we hit the road is always a happy/sad occasion. It is important to keep busy. Meals consist of creative use of whatever is left in the fridge, along with figuring out what to take and what to leave.
The fall colors are beautiful here, as I imagine Flagstaff’s colors will be. Driving to Arizona will be like going back in time—from winter to fall, to summer. So weird.
Dota surveys her kingdom
Quarry Lake
Last week, the weather gods decided to smile upon us. We walked to town one day and then took Dota and Puccini to the “big boy” dog park. The aspens and larches were at their peak. Snow was melting and a sense of fall filled the air.
Ha Ling Peak
Spray Lake Moose
Later in the week we took a drive down Spray Lake Road to revisit Sparrowhawk Tarns for a fossil hunt. That morning turned into a wild moose chase of sorts (hahaha). After spotting a moose by the water’s edge at Spray Lake, we pulled over to investigate. Circling back, we patiently waited for the moose to cross in front of us. Unfortunately, when he finally did, he was in the shade.
Dave and I reached the Sparrowhawk trailhead around noon and hiked up to the giant rocks and scree to look at fossils. Strong winds and low temperatures cut our stay a little short, but all in all it was the perfect last hike of the season.
Sparrowhawk Trail rockslide
Lichen
Grizzly tracks
As our week winds down, the snow starts falling. We have seen several deer eating berries around our townhome, as well as a lot evidence of bear activity (tracks and poop). They are no doubt doing a bit of last minute preparation as winter approaches.
I’m beginning to realize how nice it will be to see an Arizona sunset, and once again rediscover the beauty of the Sonoran desert. Aww, look at me, waxing nostalgic. Ask me in a week or so to see if I still feel the same way.
Happy Trails, Alberta.
Smoke and haze. B.C. is on fire again. After a week of poor air and visibility, we finally got a bit of a break. The wind turned to the east and started blowing the smoke back from where it came. We also got a little rain. Yay! The end result was a couple of days with fairly clear, clean air. Perfect for taking a bike ride on the Cascade Valley Trail in Banff.
Cascade Valley Trailhead
One of several ponds along our path to the river.
The rain had softened the trail a bit. It was kind of like biking through a sandy, rocky wash. Every pedal stroke seemed to take more and more effort. Prior to the bridge the trail wasn't bad—a wide, moderate climb.
The new bridge over the Cascade River, replacing the one destroyed in the 2013 flood.
Cascade River
But once across the Cascade river, the trail turned rocky. Whine. I fondly remembered the last time we were slogging up the rocks when we turned back and saw a mother grizzly and her cub cross the road. That had been my personal turnaround point. Oh, and then the time Dave biked to the top of the a hill and after catching his breath, looked up and surprised a giant black bear. No such encounters this time.
Rest stop on the trail.
Heading back, we enjoyed a quick lunch on the bridge, then continued with a fast, bumpy return to the Jeep. A nice reward for the effort.
Looking back, all I can say is, “Thank goodness for Motrin.”
If at first you don’t succeed… After 80 busy signals, Dave broke through and secured a coveted 11km bus ride and a camping site for Lake O’Hara — the holy grail of the Canadian Rockies
Once a designer, always a designer. There is not a day that goes by that I don't find myself matching miscellaneous items to Pantone swatches. Dave humors my obsession. With that in mind, I thought it was high time to share some of what we love about our summer home.
POOP Bags. Wow, how often do you see a poop bag personalized with the Canmore town logo? My friend Katherine, took a few of these bags back to Phoenix as a souvenir. Bag stands and disposal receptacles are discreetly placed throughout the townsite. No excuses for not cleaning up after pooch.
Roller Skiers. I was so enamored by these athletes that Dave and I went to the Nordic Center to see if I could purchase some skis to join in. The guy at the shop looked at me and said, “You know, these don't have brakes.” He followed up by saying, “Sorry, I really can’t sell these to you in good faith.” Enough said.
Cross-country skiers summer workout
Neighborhood Deer and Elk. Walking the pups never seems to be boring.
Canmore Bunnies
Feral Bunnies. Canmore has been battling these “wascally rabbits” since the '80s. I tend to side with Ken Anderson, who has lived in Canmore for 28 years. He says, “It makes it sort of a cute, cuddly little place to live.“ https://bit.ly/2AJdA6p
Sewer Covers. That’s right, it’s the logo again. Such a nice touch, don’t you think?
Wildlife Crossings. Did you know that Banff National Park has the largest number of wild life crossing structures in the world? From 1996-2012, over 180,000 passages were recorded. The Elk were the first animals to cross. Bears are slow to learn, taking years to use them. https://bit.ly/2M2pU6s
Wildlife crossing structure in Banff National Park
Quarry Lake Dog Park. Canmorites love their dogs. This park is outrageous. No fences, paths everywhere, acres and acres (hectares!) to roam and a lovely lake to splash in.
The Big Head, Alan Henderson
I would be remiss in not mentioning a Canmore icon —The Big Head. Alberta artist Alan Henderson built a sculpture for the town using it’s name for inspiration. In Gaelic, Ceannmore (Canmore) means “big head,” so that’s exactly what Henderson produced. The community loves to accessorize it for different occasions. The giant head has been seen sporting a graduation cap, a winter toque, and a summer pirate hat. https://bit.ly/2M2LmrH
No matter how large or small, quirky or different, we love this place.
This was an extraordinary summer. Fires raged and ashes fell. Blue skies gave way to an orange glow. Lack of rain encouraged the flames wrath. There was still beauty amongst the ashes.